Basic guide to sewing with stretch fabrics
I’ve noticed that a lot of people get really scared about sewing stretchy fabrics. I was too until I gave it a try a few years ago – and you know what? It’s not so hard! Really!!
Basically the only trick is to use stitches that will maintain the stretch of the fabric. There are just a few simple techniques you need to know, and then you’re set!
There are two main ways that I sew seams on stretchy fabrics
1) SERGER/OVERLOCKER
I either use my serger/overlocker as it creates a stitch that has stretch in it
2) ZIG ZAG
Or I use the zig zag stitch on my sewing machine, as the shape of the stitch will allow the fabric to stretch a little after sewing.
A lot of machines have built in stretch stitches, that many people swear by. I personally don’t use them, because I don’t think they add that much value – but check your sewing machine’s manual, as you may find you like using those stitches better.
One of the super cool things about strech fabrics is that you often don’t have to finish the edges as they won’t fray (unless it’s a loosely woven sweater type fabric).
1) SERGER/OVERLOCKER
If you used a serger to sew your seams you don’t need to neaten anything at all!
2) ZIG ZAG
But if you used a zig zag or other stretch stitch on a sewing machine, then you can either leave the seams as is – or you can neatly trim away the excess fabric. That’s it :) no stress!
Hemming is also not as scary as you might think!!
1) DOUBLE NEEDLE
My absolutely favourite method of hemming stretchy fabrics is using a double needle. I don’t often mention it though, as it seems to terrify many people. But double needles are awesome and you will love them if you try! You don’t need a special machine, and the resulting stitch has a great amount of stretch built into it.
You simply thread your machine as per normal, just using 2 spools of thread instead of one,
and then thread your needles.
Simple simple.
The only thing that is tough is that you have to do all top stitching on the outside (right side) of the fabric, which can be a little hard with wide hems that go beyond your machines measures.
My trick is to iron my hem, then place a piece of tape the correct distance from the needle on my machine, and then use that as my sewing guide.
2) ZIG ZAG
If you’re still worried about using a double needle, another easy method is using a zig zag stitch. Just top stitch your hem and you’re done!
** Just like in regular sewing projects, always prewash and dry your fabric in the way you will after sewing. Keep in mind that many stretch fabrics shrink a lot. I like to tumble dry mine after washing, as I know that’s more than likely how I’ll dry them after sewing my clothing.
** When cutting make sure that you lay your pattern pieces so that the stretchiest part of the fabric is going across your body (side to side) rather than up your body (up and down) – or else you won’t be able to get it on!!
** When sewing do not stretch the fabric unless the pattern calls for it. If you stretch your garment will more than likely come out misshapen.
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Thank you for this information. I have been looking for ways to get a little more stretch out of my sewing machine and your ideas are the best I’ve seen. The photographs are very helpful also. I may even bravely go out and buy a double needle attachment, since that provides a nicely finished hem.
I’m so glad you found it helpful! I hope you give the twin needle a try – they’re only about $4 and I use mine allll the time now! It just looks so professional :)
[...] If you need some extra tips on sewing with stretchy fabric, then check out this post, or if you’re looking for somewhere to buy jersey fabric check this one out. Share and [...]
[...] If you need some extra tips on sewing with stretchy fabric, then check out this post, or if you’re looking for somewhere to buy jersey fabric check this one [...]
Thank you so much for sharing this information!!! I have tried sewing Knit a few times and I was using a regular stitch. You can guess what the out come was. I gave up but now I am going to give it another try and feel that I’ll a little more sucessful!! Thanks again…Love your blog!!
You’re so welcome! hehe yeah, my first attempts at stretch fabrics were with a regular stitch too – and it was disastrous too! I figure it’s all part of the learning curve! xoxo
I’ve always wondered how to use the double needle I own :)
lol! I owned one for YEARS before i got brave enough to try it – and now i feel like i can’t live without it. I guess that’s true for any new thing, it’s scary till we go for it :) xoxo
Do you have any advice for getting the tension right for double needles? Mine often bunches up.
hmmm I haven’t had that problem – so unfortanetly i’m not sure what the problem could be. All i can think is that perhaps it’s the bobbin tension that’s off? Also I sometimes find the wider twin needle works better than the narrower twin needle.
What great tips! I’ve just started sewing. I’ve dabbled here and there in the past but my main skills were learnt at school so I am really starting from scratch. This site is brilliant, thank you. Made some yoga pants in stretchy modal and although at points it was tricky, I think one can get used to it quite quickly. Plus these tips will help on my next jersey project.
[...] as the dress was a surprise present). And don’t forget to check Meg’s stretch fabric sewing tutorial for techniques for handling this tricky [...]
You might want to add (near the top so it’s nice and visible) that a regular sharp needle will wreak havoc if you try to use it with knits! You need either a ballpoint or a universal needle or you get everything from skipped stitches to big crazy loops on the back of the fabric :/
Thank you for you page. The information was very simple to understand and very helpful.
I am having my first venture into stretch sewing. Wonderful layout with terrific short very useful hints, all with a sense of humour.Congratulations on the site and thank-you.